Okay,
Before I begin, I must admit something right off the bat...I did NOT hike the Inca Trail. Going on this 4-day trek often done by the Incas themselves was a huge part of this trip for me. However, the Peruvian Government has put a limit of 500 people to begin the trek each day. Of those 500, only 200 are paying customers and the rest are guides, porters, etc. Due to the immense popularity of this trail, and despite the fact I tried booking back in January, I found out when I arrived here that I would not be hiking the Inca Trail. Rather, I did the 4-day Lares Trek.
This trek is considered the ¨cultural Inca Trail¨ because it passes through many villages that still live the simple Inca lifestyle. It has gorgeous scenery, and even though we were constantly at high elevations, there´s weren´t as many steep steep drops as compared to the Inca Trail...so I was not too upset! Let the story begin....
My 2 Bukima compadres and I met up with the 12 others four our great adventure. There was an Aussie couple, and a whole lot of Brits. (Oddly enough, there was another group who did the same hike though the same company but I didn´t talk with any of them until the last day...and most of their group was American.) The trek began with a hell of a long bus ride into the Sacred Valley.
We began walking from a small town and trekked for about 4 hours until we reached our first campsite, nestled in this cute little village surrounded by huge mountains on either side. A bunch of the little kids from the village hung around hoping to get some treats, and we were all suckers for it! We had some great food and got to know each other a little bit before heading to bed for a freezing night.

Having my picture taken with some local girls...in exchange for some Oreos
I got very little sleep that night the the weather was below freezing. We woke up to frost on our tent, but our AMAZING porters were nice enough to give us coca tea in bed.
--aside--you may have heard that locals chew coca leaves (origin of cocaine) to help aide with altitude sickness. There were ocassional times during the trek where I tried chewing it as well as drinking the tea. I can´t say I really noticed the effects too much but I wasn´t a big fan.--aside done--
Early that morning, we went inside one of the local houses near our campsite and met the family. It is absolutely undescribable what their life is like. They have a tiny little shack and the whole family lives inside. There is a little stove they use to cook and heat themselves with. During the morning, all the women gather around the stove and talk...just talk...and they were all very happy. The children were dirty and some didn´t have sandals or even pants to wear...yet they played with each other and were happy. It was great to see people without tv, internet, movies, etc and going on just fine with their lives. I must admit that they did have electricity and a radio though.
They lived by subsistence farming and grew mostly potatoes. I may have already mentioned this but Peru grows about 4,000 types of potatoes! They then take some of these to markets and try to barter with other people to get corn and meat. They also had some guinea pigs scurrying around inside as well as some pigs wandering around outside.
After leaving them, we set out on the most strenuous hike of my life. It was about 7 hours of strenuous, steep hiking. We needed to reach the highest point of 4,400 meters before we then trekked steep down til lunch and eventually to our campsite. That uphill hike was steeper than anything I´ve done before. Take that plus the fact that I was at a very high altitude (and less than half of the oxygen normally available to me) and the fact that I felt like I was going to have an asthma attack...plus the fact that I was stupid and carried my big hiking pack the whole time...and you can imagine why I was ready to collapse.

We made it to the summit at 4,400 meters!!
Unfortunately, it only got worse after reaching the top. I got this intense headache and felt really weak. I couldn´t just stay there so I hiked down to the lunch spot...where I ate very little...then another couple hours to the camping spot. Once I got there, I curled up in my tent and tried to take a nap to no avail. I took out my handy WFR guide and looked up the symptoms of altitude sickness: insomnia, intense headache, lack of appetite, and feeling of being ´hung over´. That was me to a tee! I crawled out of bed and had some coca tea, and my travel mate James gave me some altitude sickness pills. I felt a little bit better but still not great. I managed to drive everyone crazy with a bunch of riddles I do with my students and then we went to bed.
The next morning, we got up early and had a relatively easy hike. It was still about 4 hours but it was all relatively flat. We walked all the way to Ollantaytambo (home of the ruins that I visited a few days earlier). We then had lunch in a nice little cafe and all caught a train to Aguas Calientes. It is a cute little city at the base of the mountain containing Machu Picchu. It is very touristy with cafes and shops all over the place. It was raining when we got there so we checked into our hotel then walked down to the hot spring which wasn´t nearly as hot as we were all hoping. Later that night, we all hung out at one of the local pubs.
Early the next morning, we ate breakfast then took the 25-minute bus ride up to Machu Picchu. I must say that I absolutely hate driving on these roads because, due to steep elevations, there are a lot of switchbacks with STEEP drops. Well, the trip to Machu Picchu was no different and these drivers were the craziest of them all. I was almost involved in 2 head on crashes but both buses slammed on their brakes and missed each other by mere feet. Anyway--once we had our passports checked (and stamped!!) we began our tour of this amazing lost city with our guide Carlos.
Immediately after breakfast, we took a 25-minute bus ride up to Machu Picchu. Now, you all know how much I hate heights....and driving in Peru is tough because there are steep elevations so many of the roads are switchbacks...with very high and steep drops! Well, the ride up/down to Machu Picchu has been the worst yet. These drivers are freakin maniacs who haul ass but due to the switchbacks, they can´t see around each corner. I was almost involved in 2 separate head on collisions but each bus driver slammed on their brakes and just missed each other. Luckily, neither of us went over the edge!
Once at the top and having our passports checked (and stamped!!) we began our 2-hour tour with Carlos. It was real foggy for most of the time and when we first arrived, most of the lost city was shrouded in clouds. However, the fog eventually cleared enough for us to see how unbelievable and massive Machu Picchu really was. I could also see just how high up we were which was a bad thing.

Group photo at Machu Picchu!!
Carlos showed us around to all of the different rooms and sacred temples. There were many people who once lived there and no one knows for sure why it was abandoned. Some say malaria took over and killed many of them; some say that it became too difficult to trade their food with others. In any case, when it was ´discovered´ by Hiram Bingam in 1911, some local farmers knew about it and were actually using to terraces to cultivate crops.
People believe that there were many riches left behind including silver and gold, as well as the mummified bodies of prior Incan kings. However, the few locals who knew about it allegedly looted the place clean before Bingam arrived.

Huyana Picchu in the mist...can you believe most of the people in my group actually climbed that thing?!!!
During the tour, there was one point where we climbed higher up and I got pretty scared due to the steep drop. The group carried on but I went back the original way and met them at the bottom. A local Peruvian held my arm and walked me down actually because he could see I was nervous. Once at the bottom, he and another guy made me sit down for a while, even though I was quite fine.
After the tour, I went up a bunch of steps to the classical picture shot of Machu Picchu. Again, steep drop it seemed but I was not going to go to the edge to find out for sure. I hung out with a bunch of the local llamas and took some pics.

A nice happy llama enjoying my view up high of Machu Picchu!!
After taking some pics, I took the bus back down and hung out with a British girl named Claire while the others hiked Huayana Picchu or walked around. We then ate some lunch and took a train/bus back here to Cusco. Those of us with Bukima declared the next day ¨Bukima Pamper Day.¨ The three of us got amazing massages, hung out in the sauna and had really cool jacuzzis in these individual tubs with eucalyptus oils. Later that night, we met up with a bunch of the people from our trek and tomorrow, I´m off to Puno to see Lake Titicaca and the floating reed islands. Only 9 more days til I come home....

I can see my house from here!!!